When I started my journey in furniture making back in the 1980s, creating picture frames was one of my initial ventures. Artists were my primary clients, and they valued the careful selection of quality wood, the precision of perfect miter joints, and the added strength of exposed splines. These commissions were invaluable, not just for the much-needed income, but also for honing essential woodworking skills. Over the years, I’ve refined my frame-building techniques to develop reliable methods for crafting frames that are not only robust but also subtly elegant.
Mastering Miter Joints
For any woodworker, achieving flawless miter joints effortlessly is a significant milestone, bringing lasting satisfaction and a sense of accomplishment.
Whenever possible, I prefer to cut miters using a tablesaw with the blade tilted, keeping the wood piece in the standard crosscut position. This can be done with a sled, a miter gauge, or a sliding table. I believe this method results in a cleaner cut because it’s less forced and minimizes workpiece movement. It also simplifies the use of stop blocks and works equally well for both short and long pieces of wood.
Accuracy in achieving a 45° angle is absolutely crucial. While some joints may allow for slight errors, miters are unforgiving; any imperfection will become noticeable over time. To ensure a perfect 45° cut, I use scrap wood that’s been prepared alongside the actual frame components. Using a miter clamp to hold test pieces and a precise framing square to check the angle, you can quickly fine-tune the blade tilt to achieve the desired accuracy.
Creating the Molding Profile
Time for molding. A router table fitted with an oval edge bit allows for shaping the frame’s front surface in a single pass, giving it the gently rounded profile desired for this frame style.
While many commercial frames rely on nails or corrugated fasteners for assembly, for those aiming to create solid, long-lasting miter joints—and to add a touch of fine craftsmanship—I highly recommend reinforcing the miter joints with splines. I typically cut the spline grooves using a slot cutter on the router table. This method produces a groove with a perfectly flat bottom. For wider frames that require deeper grooves than the router can handle, I employ a cradle jig on the tablesaw and then use a chisel to square off the base of the groove.
Once the splines are glued in place, the final step is to trim them flush with the frame surface. After this, your frame is nearly ready to display your chosen artwork, showcasing both the art and the craftsmanship of the frame itself.
Adapted from Fine Woodworking #264
For the full article, please refer to the original publication.
