Stepping into De Novo European Pub, the first impression is a blend of rustic charm and modern elegance – an atmosphere as carefully crafted as their menu. My initial focus, naturally, was on the food, starting with their much-talked-about polenta. My immediate reaction? Pure culinary delight.
Polenta, a dish often made from coarsely ground cornmeal, can be transformed into a canvas for flavors. At De Novo, it’s elevated to an art form. Unlike simple boiled cornmeal, theirs is prepared with a risotto-like care, resulting in a creamy, luxurious texture. There was a distinct cheesiness, adding a rich depth that perfectly complemented the subtle cornmeal notes. It was both comforting and sophisticated, a testament to their culinary approach.
Short Ribs: A Fall-Off-The-Bone Revelation
Crowning the polenta was a generous portion of short ribs. The serving size was ample, a welcome sight considering the often smaller, more refined portions typical of upscale dining. Visually, the dish was inviting, a rustic yet elegant presentation.
The short ribs were cooked to absolute perfection. They yielded effortlessly to the gentle pressure of a fork, practically falling apart. The meat was undeniably fresh and of high quality, evident in its piping hot temperature and melt-in-your-mouth texture. The rendered fat interwoven within the meat added another layer of richness and flavor. The entire dish evoked the comforting warmth of a fall pot roast, a cozy culinary embrace on a plate.
Garlic Infusion: An Unexpectedly Delightful Element
A luscious “gravy” or reduction, presumably made from the concentrated juices of the short ribs, was drizzled generously over the meat and around the polenta. This sauce was thick and intensely flavorful, adding a savory depth to the dish.
Scattered atop were shaved Brussel sprouts, cooked al dente, providing a welcome textural contrast and a slightly bitter counterpoint to the richness of the other elements. Initially, they seemed like a simple, fresh garnish. However, the true revelation came with a forkful that included a soft, browned garlic clove. This was a game-changer. The roasted garlic infused the sprouts and the entire dish with an aromatic sweetness that was simply divine. For a garlic enthusiast, this was an absolute triumph.
Wednesday Evening Buzz: Observing the Ambiance
Despite being tempted to devour every last morsel of the short ribs, I decided to save half for lunch the next day, a testament to the generous portion. While waiting, I took the opportunity to observe the bustling Wednesday evening atmosphere.
To my right, a family of three occupied a high-top table. The mother’s shrimp salad, adorned with goat cheese, arugula, and balsamic, featured impressively large shrimp. The daughter opted for a paper-thin cheese flatbread, sparking curiosity about its on-site preparation. The father chose one of the specials, a bean-based dish with chunks of pork.
To my left, a couple enjoyed drinks and filet mignon. Filet mignon, known for its smaller portions, was indeed modestly sized, but the couple cleared their plates, suggesting satisfaction with their choice.
Hospitality Observations: A Personal Perspective
It was evident that Demetri, presumably the owner or manager, prioritized hospitality. He moved through the room, warmly greeting many guests, particularly regulars at the bar and those in the foyer. The restaurant was packed on a Wednesday during back-to-school week, a clear indication of their established reputation and attention to customer care.
However, as a first-time solo diner, I felt somewhat overlooked. A bartender engaged in conversation with the couple to my left, offering complimentary first-round drinks, a gesture attributed to Demetri’s generosity. Other waitstaff were seen chatting with larger parties in the dining area.
My most extended interaction was with the busboy, a young man who efficiently cleared plates and offered to wrap my leftovers. He was the only one who seemed to acknowledge my presence beyond basic service. My waitress, while polite during initial seating and order taking, offered little further engagement. In a busy restaurant, focus on table turnover is understandable, but the contrast in attention was noticeable.
While larger tables might understandably receive more attention due to potentially higher bills and tips, it was noteworthy that guests ordering only drinks or entrees seemed to receive more personalized hospitality than a solo diner ordering a full three-course meal.
This observation is offered as constructive feedback. Perhaps in a group, the experience would have been different. The intention is to encourage De Novo to extend their renowned hospitality equally to all patrons, including new, single diners visiting after a long commute.
Despite this minor point, the exceptional quality of the food is undeniable. De Novo truly excels in their culinary offerings. I intend to return, but next time, I will bring company to share in the experience.
Dessert Indulgence: Completing the Culinary Journey
Despite the minor service observation, my purpose at De Novo was to fully experience and review their food, a journey that naturally included dessert. Choosing to indulge was an easy decision.
